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Baby Crochet / Baby Crochet Blanket: Complete Step-by-Step Pattern

Baby Crochet Blanket: Complete Step-by-Step Pattern

October 21, 2026 by wb6dy

Create a beautiful, soft-textured baby crochet blanket with this detailed, beginner-friendly tutorial. The blanket features a simple repeating stitch pattern, a rectangular shape, and a neat single-crochet border that frames the fabric without overpowering its texture.

This pattern is worked flat in rows using US crochet terminology. You will learn how to make the foundation chain, maintain consistent stitch counts, create an attractive textured fabric, add a tidy border, and finish the blanket professionally.

The design uses a straightforward two-row repeat, making it easy to memorize while still producing an interesting texture. The instructions include calculations, estimated dimensions, troubleshooting, and suggestions for adapting the blanket to different sizes.

1. Project Overview

FeatureDetails
Skill levelBeginner to advanced beginner
Selected finished sizeApproximately 30 × 36 inches (76 × 91 cm)
YarnMedium-weight, category 4 yarn
Fiber recommendationWashable acrylic, cotton, or suitable blend
Recommended hook5 mm, adjusted to gauge
Main stitchesChain, single crochet, half double crochet
ConstructionWorked flat in rows
Estimated yarn quantityApproximately 700–900 g, subject to gauge and border
Estimated completion timeApproximately 15–30 hours
Main bodyRepeating textured stitch pattern
BorderTwo rounds of single crochet
Approximate body rowsAbout 90–100, depending on row gauge

These dimensions, yarn quantities, row counts, and completion times are estimates for planning purposes, not physically verified measurements. The finished result will vary with yarn, tension, hook size, and the amount of edging.

The chosen size is a design specification for this tutorial rather than a universal baby blanket size. Smaller receiving blankets and stroller blankets may use less yarn, while larger blankets require more.

2. Materials and Tools

Essential materials

  • Yarn: Approximately 700–900 g of medium-weight yarn, depending on the final gauge and border. Choose a yarn with care instructions suitable for frequent washing.
  • Crochet hook: A 5 mm hook as a starting point.
  • Scissors: For cutting yarn.
  • Tapestry needle: For weaving in yarn ends.
  • Measuring tape: To measure the width, length, and border.
  • Stitch markers: Optional but useful for marking the first and last stitches or dividing the work into sections.

Choosing suitable yarn

A baby blanket benefits from a fabric that feels comfortable against the skin, drapes well, and can be cared for according to the intended use.

Acrylic yarn is often easy to care for and available in many colors. Its softness and texture depend on the particular yarn.

Cotton yarn can provide clear stitch definition and a smooth surface, although some cotton fabrics may feel heavier or less flexible than comparable acrylic fabrics.

Blended yarns can combine properties of different fibers. Check the yarn label for care instructions and suitability for the intended project.

Choose yarn that is smooth enough to make the stitches easy to identify. Very textured or fuzzy yarn can make stitch counting more difficult, particularly for beginners.

Optional finishing tools

Blocking mats and rust-resistant pins can help shape the finished blanket if the selected fiber responds well to blocking. These tools are optional; the manufacturer’s care instructions should determine whether wet blocking, steam, or another finishing method is appropriate.

Yarn quantity estimate

The estimated 700–900 g is a starting range for a blanket measuring approximately 30 × 36 inches with a textured body and two-round border. It is not a verified consumption measurement.

To estimate the number of skeins, divide the total yarn requirement by the weight of one skein. For example, if a skein contains 100 g, a planning allowance of 700–900 g corresponds to approximately 7–9 skeins. Check the actual meterage per skein as well, because different yarns can provide different lengths at the same weight.

3. Crochet Terminology and Abbreviations

This pattern uses US crochet terminology. US and UK stitch names differ, so check the terminology carefully when using patterns written in different systems.

AbbreviationMeaningExplanation
chChainA foundation or turning chain
scSingle crochetA short stitch worked through the top of the indicated stitch
hdcHalf double crochetYarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, then pull through all three loops
sl stSlip stitchA joining or finishing stitch
stStitchOne completed crochet stitch
stsStitchesMore than one stitch
skSkipLeave the indicated stitch unworked
repRepeatWork the specified sequence again
FOFasten offCut and secure the yarn
RSRight sideThe intended front of the fabric
WSWrong sideThe opposite side of the fabric

Turning-chain rule: The turning chain does not count as a stitch in this pattern. After turning, work the first stitch into the first actual stitch of the previous row, not into the turning chain.

This rule is used consistently throughout the blanket body.

4. Beginner-Friendly Stitch Lessons

How to make a foundation chain

  1. Make a slip knot and place it on the hook.
  2. Yarn over by wrapping the working yarn around the hook.
  3. Pull the yarn through the loop already on the hook.
  4. Repeat until you have the required number of chains.
  5. Count the V-shaped links carefully, excluding the loop on the hook.

Keep the chain flexible. A very tight foundation chain can pull the lower edge inward even if the later rows are crocheted correctly.

How to work into a chain

Insert the hook into the chain specified by the instructions. Yarn over and pull up a loop, then complete the indicated stitch.

For single crochet, yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook.

For half double crochet, yarn over before inserting the hook, pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through all three loops on the hook.

Single crochet (sc)

  1. Insert the hook into the stitch.
  2. Yarn over and pull up a loop.
  3. Yarn over again.
  4. Pull through both loops on the hook.

The completed stitch is short and compact. Its top resembles a small V when viewed from above.

Half double crochet (hdc)

  1. Yarn over.
  2. Insert the hook into the indicated stitch.
  3. Yarn over and pull up a loop. Three loops are now on the hook.
  4. Yarn over again.
  5. Pull through all three loops.

The half double crochet is taller than a single crochet and shorter than a double crochet. It provides a useful balance of height, texture, and fabric density for a blanket.

Turning at the end of a row

When you reach the end of a row:

  1. Make one chain.
  2. Turn the work as you would turn a page.
  3. Begin the next row in the first actual stitch.
  4. Check that the final stitch of the previous row is not accidentally skipped.

Because the turning chain does not count as a stitch, the first stitch of each row must be worked into the first stitch of the preceding row.

Maintaining even tension

Hold the yarn comfortably and allow it to move freely. Avoid pulling the working yarn tightly after every stitch.

If the fabric becomes wider or narrower, count the stitches and inspect the first and last stitches of each row. Accidental increases and decreases commonly occur at the edges.

Counting stitches

Count each completed stitch along the row. For this pattern, every main-body row should contain the same number of stitches.

Stitch markers can help identify the first and last stitches. Place them in the actual stitches rather than in the turning chain.

5. Design Specifications and Finished Size

The selected design is a rectangular blanket with horizontal rows of alternating single crochet and half double crochet. The alternating stitch heights create subtle ridges and a gently textured surface.

The intended finished size is approximately 30 × 36 inches (76 × 91 cm), including the border. The actual size depends on the gauge achieved.

MeasurementDesign target
Finished widthAbout 30 inches (76 cm)
Finished lengthAbout 36 inches (91 cm)
Main-body foundation chain121 chains
Main-body stitch count120 stitches
Target stitch gaugeApproximately 4 stitches per inch
Target row gaugeApproximately 3 rows per inch
Estimated body rowsAbout 102 rows
BorderTwo rounds of single crochet
Fabric textureAlternating compact and slightly taller rows

These gauge values are design targets, not tested results. Because the stitch pattern alternates single crochet and half double crochet, measure a swatch made with both row types rather than relying on a gauge from only one stitch.

Choosing a blanket size

Blankets vary according to intended use.

  • A small stroller blanket is convenient for short outings.
  • A receiving blanket can be useful for supervised everyday care.
  • A larger blanket offers more coverage for appropriate supervised uses.

The selected 30 × 36-inch design is a practical starting point, not a universal standard. Follow current safe-sleep recommendations when deciding how any blanket will be used around an infant.

6. Gauge and Swatching

Gauge is important because it affects the blanket’s finished dimensions and yarn consumption.

Make a gauge swatch

  1. Using the recommended hook, chain 25.
  2. Row 1: Work sc in the second chain from the hook and in every remaining chain. You should have 24 stitches.
  3. Ch 1 and turn.
  4. Row 2: Work hdc in each stitch across. You should have 24 stitches.
  5. Ch 1 and turn.
  6. Row 3: Work sc in each stitch across. You should have 24 stitches.
  7. Continue alternating sc and hdc rows until the swatch is large enough to measure comfortably.
  8. Fasten off and allow the swatch to settle. If appropriate for your yarn, wash and dry it according to the care instructions before measuring.

Measure the gauge

Measure the central area of the swatch, avoiding the edges.

  • Count the stitches across a measured horizontal section.
  • Count the rows across a measured vertical section.
  • Compare the results with the target of approximately 4 stitches and 3 rows per inch.

If you have more stitches per inch than the target, try a larger hook. If you have fewer stitches per inch, try a smaller hook.

Changing the hook may also change the fabric’s drape and the amount of yarn needed. Always assess the texture as well as the measurements.

Adjusting the foundation chain

The pattern uses a foundation chain of 121 to create 120 stitches. There is no additional stitch multiple required for the alternating single-crochet and half-double-crochet rows because both rows use every stitch across.

For a different width, estimate the number of stitches using:

Stitches needed = desired width in inches × stitches per inch

For example, at a target of 4 stitches per inch, a 28-inch body would require approximately 112 stitches, so the foundation chain would be 113 chains.

This calculation is a starting point. Confirm the actual width after the first few rows because the foundation chain and finished fabric may behave differently.

7. Complete Pattern Overview

The blanket is worked flat, from one short edge to the other.

The construction sequence is:

  1. Prepare the yarn, hook, and tools.
  2. Make the foundation chain.
  3. Work the first single-crochet row.
  4. Alternate single-crochet and half-double-crochet rows.
  5. Measure the width and length periodically.
  6. Complete the final body row.
  7. Add two rounds of single-crochet edging.
  8. Fasten off and weave in all yarn ends.
  9. Shape the blanket if appropriate for the yarn.
  10. Measure and inspect the finished blanket.

The border is designed to create a neat frame around the textured body. Along the side edges, stitches must be distributed evenly so that the blanket remains flat.

8. Complete Step-by-Step Baby Blanket Pattern

A. Foundation Chain

With the selected yarn and hook, make 121 chains.

This produces 120 working stitches because the first stitch is worked into the second chain from the hook.

Keep the chain loose enough to stretch naturally without forming large gaps. Check that the chain is not twisted before beginning the first row.

B. Foundation Row — Row 1

  1. Insert the hook into the second chain from the hook.
  2. Work 1 sc.
  3. Work 1 sc into every remaining chain.
  4. Continue to the end of the chain.

Expected total: 120 sc.

Count the stitches before continuing. If the row contains fewer than 120 stitches, check for missed chains. If it contains more, look for chains that have accidentally been worked twice.

Ch 1 and turn. The turning chain does not count as a stitch.

C. Main Stitch Pattern

The main body uses two alternating row types:

  • Row A: Single crochet across.
  • Row B: Half double crochet across.

Each row contains 120 stitches. The turning chain is not counted, and no stitches are skipped.

Row 2 — Half Double Crochet

  1. Ch 1 and turn.
  2. Work 1 hdc into the first stitch.
  3. Work 1 hdc into every remaining stitch.
  4. Finish with 1 hdc in the final stitch.

Expected total: 120 hdc.

Ch 1 and turn.

Row 3 — Single Crochet

  1. Work 1 sc into the first stitch.
  2. Work 1 sc into every remaining stitch.
  3. Finish with 1 sc in the final stitch.

Expected total: 120 sc.

Ch 1 and turn.

Row 4 — Half Double Crochet

Work 1 hdc into each of the 120 stitches across.

Expected total: 120 hdc.

Ch 1 and turn.

Row 5 — Single Crochet

Work 1 sc into each of the 120 stitches across.

Expected total: 120 sc.

Ch 1 and turn.

D. Repeating the Main Pattern

Repeat the two-row sequence:

  • Even-numbered rows: 120 hdc.
  • Odd-numbered rows from Row 3 onward: 120 sc.

Continue alternating these two row types until you reach the target body length.

For the approximate 30 × 36-inch design, use 102 body rows as an initial planning target. This is an estimate based on the proposed row gauge, not a guaranteed stopping point.

At a target of 3 rows per inch, 102 rows would measure approximately 34 inches before the border. The actual length must be measured because the row height depends on yarn, hook, and tension.

Measurement checkpoints

Measure the blanket after approximately 20, 40, 60, 80, and 100 rows.

At each checkpoint:

  1. Lay the fabric flat without stretching it.
  2. Measure the width across the center.
  3. Measure the length from the foundation edge to the current row.
  4. Confirm that the edges remain straight.
  5. Check that the stitch count is still 120.

If the blanket is growing too quickly or too slowly, use the measured length to estimate how many more rows are needed.

To calculate the approximate remaining rows:

Remaining rows ≈
desired remaining length ÷ measured average row height

Because the pattern alternates two row heights, this calculation is an estimate. Finish on a complete row of the established repeat, then measure again before adding the border.

E. Final Main-Body Row

For a planned 102-row body, Row 102 is a half-double-crochet row.

  1. Ch 1 and turn.
  2. Work 1 hdc into each stitch across.
  3. Confirm that the row contains 120 stitches.
  4. Measure the body width and length.
  5. Fasten off if the body has reached the intended size, leaving a manageable tail.

The body should have two straight side edges, a consistent stitch count, and no obvious widening or narrowing. The precise final measurements may vary from the design target.

9. Stitch Counts and Mathematical Validation

The main body has a fixed stitch count throughout.

Row or row typeInstructionsExpected count
Foundation chain121 ch121 chains
Row 1120 sc120 stitches
Row 2120 hdc120 stitches
Row 3120 sc120 stitches
Row 4120 hdc120 stitches
Row 5120 sc120 stitches
Even-numbered rows120 hdc120 stitches
Odd-numbered rows from Row 3 onward120 sc120 stitches
Row 102120 hdc120 stitches

The foundation chain contains 121 chains, but the first single crochet is worked into the second chain from the hook. Therefore, the first row contains 120 stitches.

Both main stitch types use one stitch for every stitch in the previous row. No increases or decreases are needed, so the stitch count remains 120 throughout.

The estimated length depends on row gauge. At approximately 3 rows per inch, 102 rows produce around 34 inches of body length before edging. The finished size is not guaranteed because actual row height may differ.

10. Color Changes and Design Variations

The basic design uses one color throughout. You can add stripes without changing the stitch count or construction method.

Simple stripe option

Use this sequence as an example:

  • Rows 1–10: Color A.
  • Rows 11–20: Color B.
  • Rows 21–30: Color A.
  • Continue alternating ten-row sections until the body reaches the desired length.

Keep the two-row stitch repeat intact when changing colors. If a stripe begins on an odd-numbered row, the stripe starts with single crochet; if it begins on an even-numbered row, it starts with half double crochet.

For neat color changes:

  1. Complete the final yarn-over of the last stitch using the new color when appropriate.
  2. Leave a manageable tail in both colors.
  3. Avoid pulling the yarn tightly at the edge.
  4. Weave in the ends securely after finishing.

Stripes increase the number of yarn ends that need finishing. The overall yarn quantity may also change if the colors have different weights, textures, or thicknesses.

Suggested color combinations

  • Cream and soft beige.
  • Pale blue and white.
  • Sage green and ivory.
  • Dusty pink and cream.
  • Gray and white.
  • Two complementary neutral shades.

You can also use a single color for a simple, understated blanket.

11. Complete Border Instructions

The border uses two rounds of single crochet. The first round establishes a neat edge; the second reinforces the frame and shapes the corners.

Use the main yarn or a contrasting color. A contrasting border can make the blanket look more defined.

Border Round 1

Begin at a corner of the blanket.

  1. Join the yarn with a slip stitch at the corner, or pull up a loop and chain 1.
  2. Work 1 sc into each of the 120 stitches along the first long edge.
  3. At the corner, work 3 sc into the corner stitch or corner space.
  4. Along the first side edge, distribute single crochets evenly across the row ends.
  5. At the next corner, work 3 sc into the corner space.
  6. Work 1 sc into each stitch across the opposite long edge.
  7. At the third corner, work 3 sc into the corner space.
  8. Work evenly along the remaining side edge.
  9. At the final corner, work 3 sc into the corner space.
  10. Join the round with a slip stitch to the first single crochet.

Distributing stitches along the side edges

The side edges contain row ends rather than ordinary stitch tops. Working one single crochet into every row end may make the border too full, depending on the row height.

As a starting estimate, work approximately 3 sc for every 4 row ends. For a 102-row body, this produces approximately 77 single crochets along each side edge.

Use the following practical method:

  • Work 3 sc across each group of 4 row ends.
  • Spread the stitches evenly across each group.
  • For the final incomplete group, distribute the remaining stitches proportionally.
  • Check that the edge lies flat before continuing.

The estimate assumes the row gauge and stitch height are reasonably close to the design targets. If the border pulls inward, add a few stitches along the side edges. If it ruffles, remove some and redistribute them.

Border Round 2

  1. Ch 1; this turning chain does not count as a stitch.
  2. Work 1 sc into each stitch along the edge.
  3. At each corner, identify the middle of the three single crochets made in the previous round.
  4. Work 3 sc into that middle corner stitch.
  5. Continue with 1 sc in each ordinary stitch.
  6. Repeat around all four sides.
  7. Join with a slip stitch to the first single crochet.

Working three stitches into each middle corner stitch adds enough room for the blanket to turn without creating a sharp, pulled corner.

Checking the border

Lay the blanket flat after each round.

  • If the edges curl inward, the border may be too tight or may contain too few stitches.
  • If the edges ripple, the border may have too many stitches.
  • If the corners look rounded but remain flat, the corner increases are likely distributed appropriately.

Adjust the side-edge stitch distribution before completing the second round if necessary.

12. Finishing and Blocking

Fastening off and weaving in ends

  1. After completing the border, cut the yarn and leave a tail of approximately 15 cm.
  2. Pull the tail through the final loop.
  3. Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle.
  4. Weave it through several stitches on the wrong side.
  5. Change direction and weave through another section.
  6. Trim the excess without cutting into the fabric.

Repeat for every remaining yarn end, including color-change tails.

Shaping the blanket

Lay the blanket on a clean, flat surface and gently arrange it into a rectangle. Measure the width and length without stretching the stitches.

Blocking may help even the edges, depending on the fiber and stitch pattern. Follow the yarn manufacturer’s instructions before using water, steam, or heat.

If wet blocking is appropriate, gently shape the damp blanket to the intended dimensions and allow it to dry completely. Avoid pulling the fabric excessively or using a finishing method that could damage the yarn.

Final inspection

Check the following:

  • The width and length are consistent with your intended size.
  • The border lies flat.
  • All four corners are neat.
  • The stitch texture is consistent.
  • No stitches are accidentally missing.
  • Every yarn end is securely hidden.

13. Common Mistakes and Troubleshooting

ProblemLikely causeHow to fix itHow to prevent it
Foundation chain is too tightChains are made with excessive tensionUndo and remake the chain more looselyUse a larger hook for the foundation chain if needed
Edges are unevenFirst or last stitches are missedIdentify the edge stitches and correct the affected rowsUse stitch markers and count every row
Accidental increasesTwo stitches are worked into one by mistakeUndo the extra stitchCheck the first and last stitches carefully
Accidental decreasesA stitch is skippedUndo the affected section and work into the missing stitchCount the stitches before turning
Stitch count is incorrectMissed or duplicated stitchesRecount and correct the rowCheck each row before starting the next
Blanket becomes widerExtra stitches are added at the edgesRemove the extra stitchesMark the first and last stitches
Blanket becomes narrowerEdge stitches are missedRestore the missing stitches if possibleIdentify the last stitch before turning
Border curls inwardToo few stitches or tight tensionAdd stitches along the side edges or relax tensionCheck the border after its first round
Border rufflesToo many stitches along the edgesRemove excess stitches and redistribute themUse the row-end ratio as a starting guide
Holes appear in the fabricUneven tension or loose stitchesAdjust tension and check the hook sizePractice the stitch pattern before starting
Tension is inconsistentYarn is held unevenlyPause and relax your handsMaintain a comfortable, consistent grip
Blanket is too smallGauge is tighter than expectedAdd rows or adjust the design if necessaryMake and measure a swatch
Blanket is too largeGauge is looser than expectedReduce the number of rows or revise the foundation width for a new projectMeasure after the first several rows
Yarn ends come looseEnds are too short or insufficiently woven inSecure the ends again with a tapestry needleLeave adequate tails and weave them in multiple directions

Correcting mistakes early is usually easier than trying to hide them in later rows or in the border.

14. Customization and Size Adjustments

Making the blanket wider

The main stitch pattern has no special stitch multiple. Every stitch in the foundation row becomes one stitch in the first row, and the alternating rows use all stitches.

To estimate the required foundation chain:

Foundation chains ≈ (desired width in inches × stitches per inch) + 1

For example, at 4 stitches per inch, a 32-inch body requires approximately 128 stitches, so the foundation chain would be 129 chains.

Make a swatch first, because the actual gauge may differ from the estimate.

Making the blanket longer or shorter

The easiest adjustment is to change the number of body rows.

  • Add rows to make the blanket longer.
  • Work fewer rows to make it shorter.
  • Keep the alternating single-crochet and half-double-crochet sequence intact.
  • Finish on a complete row of the pattern.

Measure the fabric rather than relying exclusively on the planned row count.

Changing yarn weight or hook size

A heavier yarn generally creates a larger, thicker fabric, while a lighter yarn generally creates a smaller, lighter fabric. Hook size affects stitch dimensions, texture, and drape.

Changing yarn weight may require recalculating the foundation chain, number of rows, and yarn quantity.

Estimating yarn for a different size

As a rough planning method, compare the new blanket’s area with the original design:

Estimated yarn ≈ original yarn × new area original area

For a rectangular blanket, area is width multiplied by length.

This formula assumes the same yarn, stitch pattern, gauge, and border. It is only an estimate because changes in yarn weight, stitch density, and edging can affect actual consumption.

Changing the border

You can use a contrasting color for the two-round single-crochet border or keep it in the main color.

A more elaborate border may require additional yarn and a different corner treatment. Check the edge pattern separately before applying it around the entire blanket.

15. Baby Blanket Care and Practical Considerations

Care depends on the selected yarn and filling, if any. Follow the manufacturer’s care instructions for washing, drying, and storage.

For a washable yarn:

  1. Use the recommended washing method.
  2. Avoid excessive agitation if it may distort the fabric.
  3. Reshape the blanket gently after washing.
  4. Dry it completely before storage.
  5. Inspect the edges and yarn ends periodically.

Keep the blanket clean and check for loose threads, damaged fabric, or decorations that could detach.

Baby safety: A crocheted blanket is not a substitute for safe-sleep guidance. Loose blankets and other soft items can pose risks in an infant’s sleep environment. Follow current safe-sleep recommendations and use the blanket only in an appropriate context. Avoid detachable decorations and secure all yarn ends.

16. Beginner and Advanced Crocheter Tips

Beginner tips

  • Practice single crochet and half double crochet before beginning the full blanket.
  • Make the foundation chain slowly and count it carefully.
  • Use stitch markers to identify the first and last stitches.
  • Count each row before turning.
  • Measure the blanket at regular intervals.
  • Correct missed or extra stitches as soon as they appear.
  • Check the border after its first round before continuing.

Advanced tips

  • Make a gauge swatch using both alternating row types.
  • Adjust the hook to balance fabric density and drape.
  • Use a consistent method for distributing stitches along row ends.
  • Introduce stripes at planned row intervals.
  • Experiment with a contrasting border while preserving the same body construction.
  • Recalculate the foundation chain and yarn estimate when changing dimensions.
  • Block only when the selected fiber and care instructions permit it.

17. Final Project Checklist

  • Blanket width and length have been measured.
  • Stitch counts are consistent throughout the body.
  • Tension is even.
  • Side edges are straight.
  • The border is complete.
  • All four corners are neat.
  • Yarn ends are securely woven in.
  • The fabric has a consistent texture.
  • The blanket lies flat without excessive curling or ruffling.
  • Finishing and care methods are appropriate for the yarn.
  • The blanket has been inspected for loose threads or damaged stitches.

18. Frequently Asked Questions

1. Is this baby crochet blanket suitable for beginners?

Yes. It uses basic stitches and a repeating two-row pattern. Beginners should practice the foundation chain and both stitches before starting the full blanket.

2. What yarn is suitable for a baby blanket?

Smooth, washable yarn with suitable care instructions is a practical choice. Acrylic, cotton, and appropriate blends may all work, depending on the desired texture and drape.

3. How much yarn will I need?

The estimate is approximately 700–900 g for the selected design. Actual consumption depends on gauge, fiber, stitch tension, blanket dimensions, and border.

4. How can I make the blanket larger?

Increase the foundation chain for additional width and add rows for additional length. Recalculate the foundation chain using your measured stitch gauge.

5. How can I keep the edges straight?

Work into the first and last stitches consistently. Remember that the turning chain does not count as a stitch in this pattern.

6. Why is my blanket curling?

Curling may result from tight tension, uneven edges, or an unbalanced border. Check the stitch count and make sure the border has enough stitches to lie flat.

7. Can I use a different crochet stitch?

Yes, but a different stitch may change the gauge, texture, drape, yarn quantity, and foundation-chain requirements. Make a new swatch before adapting the dimensions.

8. How do I add a neat border?

Work the first border round evenly around all four sides. Distribute stitches along the row ends and use three single crochets at each corner. Check that the blanket remains flat before adding the second round.

9. Can I change the yarn weight?

Yes. However, changing yarn weight can change the finished size and fabric characteristics. Recheck the gauge and adjust the foundation chain and number of rows as needed.

10. How should I wash and dry the finished blanket?

Follow the yarn manufacturer’s care instructions. Reshape the blanket after washing if necessary and allow it to dry completely before storing it.

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