Baby Crochet Baby Lovey

A crochet baby lovey combines a soft, lightweight blanket with a small crocheted animal head to create a sweet handmade comfort item. This beginner-friendly design features a cuddly bear head, two rounded ears, and a textured square blanket. It makes a thoughtful handmade gift for a baby shower, a newborn celebration, or a nursery keepsake.

Before gifting or using a lovey, remember that handmade comfort items are not automatically safe for every age. Soft objects and loose bedding should be kept out of an infant’s sleep space. Follow appropriate safe-sleep guidance, and use the finished lovey only in an age-appropriate way with adult supervision.

1. Project Overview

Project: Baby Crochet Baby Lovey
Animal design: Simple teddy bear
Skill level: Beginner with basic crochet experience
Construction: A stuffed amigurumi bear head with two flat, rounded ears, attached to a solid granny-square blanket
Approximate finished size: The blanket will measure about 12–14 inches across, and the bear head will be approximately 3–4 inches wide.
Approximate completion time: 5–8 hours, depending on your experience and working speed.
Yarn: Approximately 150–220 yards of soft, washable yarn for the blanket and bear, plus a small amount of contrasting yarn for the muzzle and face.
Main techniques: Chain stitches, single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, increases, decreases, continuous rounds, granny-square corners, embroidery, and sewing.
Uses: A supervised comfort item for age-appropriate use, a handmade gift, or a decorative nursery keepsake.

These measurements, yarn quantities, and time estimates are approximate. The final dimensions depend on yarn weight, hook size, stitch tension, and the number of blanket rounds you work.

2. Materials and Tools

Gather the following supplies before beginning.

Soft, washable medium-weight yarn, preferably a smooth acrylic or cotton blend suitable for the intended use.
A 3.5 mm crochet hook for the bear head, ears, and muzzle.
A 4 mm crochet hook for the blanket, if needed to achieve a soft, flexible fabric.
A small amount of contrasting yarn for the muzzle, eyes, nose, and mouth.
Polyester fiberfill suitable for the project.
Scissors.
A yarn needle with a blunt tip.
Stitch markers.
A measuring tape, if desired.

Choose yarn that feels smooth and comfortable to handle, has clear stitch definition, and can be cared for according to its label. Avoid yarn that sheds excessively or develops long loose fibers.

Use a smaller hook for the bear head if necessary to create a firm fabric with no visible gaps through which stuffing can escape. The blanket should feel soft and flexible rather than stiff.

Do not add buttons, beads, bells, plastic eyes, detachable accessories, or unsecured decorations to this baby-focused design. Embroidered facial features keep the design simple, although embroidery and seams must still be checked regularly.

3. Important Safety Guidance

A crochet baby lovey is a handmade comfort item, not automatically a safe sleep product. Keep soft objects, toys, and loose bedding out of an infant’s sleep space, following current guidance from the child’s healthcare provider or relevant public-health authority.

Use the lovey only in an age-appropriate manner and with adult supervision. Before each use, inspect the blanket, bear head, ears, embroidery, and attachment seam. Stop using the item if you notice loose yarn, a damaged seam, exposed stuffing, unraveling embroidery, or a detached part.

Embroider the eyes, nose, and mouth instead of using plastic safety eyes or small detachable pieces. Sew the head and ears firmly in place, weave in all ends, and check that no long loose strands remain.

These precautions reduce certain construction risks, but they do not guarantee that a handmade item meets every applicable safety standard.

4. US Crochet Abbreviations

The pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout.

Abbreviation	Meaning
ch	Chain
sl st	Slip stitch
sc	Single crochet
hdc	Half double crochet
dc	Double crochet
inc	Increase: work two single crochet stitches in the same stitch
dec	Decrease: combine two stitches into one, preferably with an invisible decrease
st / sts	Stitch / stitches
sp	Space
rnd	Round
rep	Repeat
BLO	Back loop only
FLO	Front loop only

BLO and FLO are included for reference but are not needed in the main pattern.

Working in continuous rounds

The bear head is worked in a spiral, without joining the end of each round to the beginning. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round and move it upward as you progress. Count your stitches carefully because the spiral does not create an obvious round boundary.

Working the blanket in joined rounds

The blanket is worked in rounds. At the end of each round, join to the first stitch with a slip stitch. The starting chain does not count as a stitch in the blanket pattern unless specifically stated. For the blanket’s double-crochet rounds, chain 3 at the beginning; this chain counts as the first double crochet of that side. The joining slip stitch does not count as a stitch.

5. Skills to Know Before Starting

Slip knot: Make a loop with the yarn, pull a new loop through it, and tighten gently around your hook.
Magic ring: Wrap the yarn to create an adjustable loop, then work the required stitches into the loop. Pull the yarn tail to close the center. If you prefer, chain 2 and work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
Single crochet: Insert the hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through both loops.
Increase: Work two single crochet stitches into the same stitch.
Decrease: Insert the hook into the front loop of each of the next two stitches, yarn over and pull through both front loops, then yarn over and pull through the remaining loops.
Continuous rounds: Work around without joining, marking the first stitch of every round.
Joined rounds: Finish each round with a slip stitch and begin the next round as instructed.
Counting stitches: Count the top loops of each stitch and check the stated round total before continuing.
Embroidery: Use yarn and a blunt needle to make short, secure stitches for the eyes, nose, and mouth.
Sewing crochet pieces: Pass the needle through corresponding stitches around the pieces, distributing stitches evenly.
Weaving in ends: Thread each yarn tail through several stitches on the inside or underside, changing direction before trimming the excess.

6. Gauge and Finished Dimensions

Traditional garment gauge is not essential for this project, but consistent tension matters. The bear head needs dense stitches so the stuffing stays inside, while the blanket should have a soft drape and lie flat.

As an approximate guide, the finished bear head may be 3–4 inches wide and about 3 inches tall before the ears are attached. The blanket may measure 12–14 inches from one edge to the opposite edge.

To measure the blanket, lay it flat without stretching and measure straight across the center from one edge to the opposite edge. Check the head’s proportions by placing it near the blanket’s center. It should look balanced without covering too much of the blanket.

If the head is too large, use thinner yarn or a smaller hook. If the blanket is too small, continue adding rounds. Yarn weight, hook size, stitch tension, and the number of rounds all affect the final dimensions.

7. Step-by-Step Crochet Baby Lovey Pattern

The lovey has four main components: a rounded bear head, two flat rounded ears, an embroidered muzzle and face, and a square blanket. Make the pieces separately, then sew them together securely.

A. Crocheting the Bear Head

Use the 3.5 mm hook and your main bear color. Work in continuous rounds, marking the first stitch of every round. The head is designed with an open base of 18 stitches so it can be sewn directly to the blanket.

Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed. (6 sts)

Round 2: Work 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 sts)

Round 3: Repeat 1 sc in the next stitch, then 2 sc in the following stitch, six times around. (18 sts)

Round 4: Repeat 1 sc in each of the next 2 stitches, then 2 sc in the following stitch, six times around. (24 sts)

Round 5: Repeat 1 sc in each of the next 3 stitches, then 2 sc in the following stitch, six times around. (30 sts)

Rounds 6–8: Work 1 sc in every stitch around. (30 sts in each round)

Round 9: Repeat 1 sc in each of the next 3 stitches, then make an invisible decrease over the next 2 stitches, six times around. (24 sts)

Round 10: Repeat 1 sc in each of the next 2 stitches, then make an invisible decrease over the next 2 stitches, six times around. (18 sts)

Fasten off only if you need to reposition your yarn for embroidery; otherwise, leave the working loop secure while you prepare the face.

Stuffing and finishing the head opening

Before closing or attaching the head, add small amounts of polyester fiberfill through the 18-stitch opening. Spread the stuffing evenly toward the top and sides, using enough to maintain a rounded shape without stretching the stitches. The fabric should remain firm and closed-looking, with no stuffing visible.

Do not work additional decrease rounds. The 18-stitch opening is intentional: it forms the base that will be sewn to the blanket. Keep the opening accessible for assembly.

B. Making Two Rounded Bear Ears

Make two identical ears using the main bear color and the 3.5 mm hook. Each ear is a small, flat circle worked in continuous rounds.

Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 sc into it. Pull the ring closed. (6 sts)

Round 2: Work 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 sts)

Round 3: Work 1 sc in every stitch around. (12 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff the ears. Flatten each circle gently between your fingers, then fold it slightly at the bottom to create a shallow rounded ear shape.

Position the ears symmetrically on the upper sides of the head. Leave a similar distance between each ear and the centerline of the face. Use stitch markers to hold them in place before sewing.

With the yarn tails and a yarn needle, sew each ear along its lower curved edge. Take small, evenly spaced stitches through both layers of the ear and the head fabric. Reinforce each ear with a second pass if needed, then weave the ends securely into the head.

C. Embroidering the Bear’s Face

Use a contrasting yarn in a darker shade for the eyes and nose. A small amount of cream or a lighter shade can be used for the muzzle.

1. Make the muzzle.

Using the contrasting muzzle color and the 3.5 mm hook, chain 5.

Work 1 sc in the second chain from the hook and 1 sc in each of the next 2 chains.
Work 3 sc into the final chain.
Turn to the opposite side of the starting chain and work 1 sc in each of the next 2 available chain loops.
Work 2 sc into the remaining loop at the end.

You should have 10 stitches around the chain. (10 sts)

Next round: Work 1 sc in each stitch around. (10 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the small oval gently. Sew it to the lower front of the head, centered horizontally and positioned below where the eyes will go. Use small stitches around its edge, keeping the muzzle flat.

2. Embroider the eyes.

Using dark yarn and a yarn needle, make a small horizontal stitch for each eye. Place the eyes at the same height, above the muzzle, with equal spacing from the center of the head. Keep the stitches short and secure.

3. Embroider the nose and mouth.

At the upper center of the muzzle, embroider a small triangular or horizontal nose using dark yarn. From the center of the nose, make a short vertical stitch downward, followed by two tiny angled stitches to form a simple mouth.

Check the face from the front before securing the yarn ends. Adjust any uneven stitches while they are still easy to move. Thread the ends inside the head, weave them through several stitches, and trim the excess without leaving long loose strands.

D. Crocheting the Square Blanket

Use the 4 mm hook and your chosen blanket color. The blanket is a solid granny square worked in joined rounds, with four clearly defined corners. Each corner is formed by working two double crochet stitches, a chain-2 space, and two more double crochet stitches into the corner space.

The chain 3 at the beginning of each round counts as one double crochet. The slip stitch used to join the round does not count as a stitch.

Starting the center

Make a slip knot and chain 4. Join with a slip stitch to the first chain to form a ring.

Round 1:

Chain 3. This counts as the first dc.
Work 2 dc into the center ring.
Chain 2.
Work 3 dc into the ring, then chain 2.
Repeat the group of 3 dc followed by chain 2 two more times.
Join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain 3.

You should have four groups of 3 dc, separated by four chain-2 corner spaces. (12 dc, 4 corner spaces)

Building the square

Round 2:

Slip stitch across the next 2 dc and into the first corner space.
Chain 3, then work 1 dc into the same corner space.
Chain 2, then work 2 dc into that same corner space. This forms the first corner.
Work 1 dc into each of the next 3 dc along the side.
Into the next corner space, work 2 dc, chain 2, and 2 dc.
Repeat the side section and corner section around the square until all four corners are complete.
Join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain 3.

Each side now has 7 dc between the two corner spaces. (28 dc, 4 corner spaces)

Round 3:

Slip stitch across the next dc and into the first corner space.
Chain 3, work 1 dc into the same corner space, chain 2, and work 2 dc into the same space.
Work 1 dc into each dc along the side until you reach the next corner space.
Work 2 dc, chain 2, and 2 dc into that corner space.
Repeat around all four sides, working 1 dc into every side stitch between the corner spaces.
Join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain 3.

Each side now has 11 dc between the corner spaces. (44 dc, 4 corner spaces)

Round 4 and every following round:

Slip stitch across the next dc and into the first corner space.
Chain 3, work 1 dc into the same corner space, chain 2, and work 2 dc into the same space.
Work 1 dc into every dc along the side until you reach the next corner space.
Work 2 dc, chain 2, and 2 dc into the corner space.
Repeat around all four sides.
Join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain 3.

Continue this round until the blanket reaches your desired approximate size, measuring straight across the center without stretching. With this construction, each new round adds four double crochet stitches to each side’s total: the two stitches worked at each end of the side create the growth.

For reference, each side has 15 dc between the corner spaces after Round 4, 19 after Round 5, and 23 after Round 6. Continue in the same way until the blanket measures approximately 12–14 inches across, or until it reaches the size you prefer.

Keeping the square flat

Keep the chain-2 corner spaces open and easy to identify.
Work exactly one double crochet into every stitch along each side.
Avoid accidentally skipping the first or last stitch before a corner.
Lay the blanket flat after every few rounds. If the sides curl upward, check your stitch count and tension. If the fabric becomes wavy, your tension may be too loose or you may be adding extra stitches.
Use stitch markers in the corner spaces if you find it difficult to locate them.

E. Optional Blanket Border

A simple single crochet border gives the blanket a neat edge without making it excessively heavy.

Join the border yarn in any corner space. Chain 1; this does not count as a stitch.

Work 2 sc into the corner space, then work 1 sc into each double crochet stitch along the side.
When you reach the next corner space, work 3 sc into that space.
Continue working 1 sc into every double crochet stitch along the next side, then 3 sc into the next corner space.
Repeat around all four sides.
Join with a slip stitch to the first sc of the border.

Fasten off and weave in the end.

The extra stitch in each corner helps the border turn neatly. If the border curls, check that you have not skipped edge stitches. If the corners ruffle, try using only 2 sc in each corner space on the next attempt.

F. Attaching the Bear Head to the Blanket

Once the head, ears, and blanket are complete, attach the head near the center of the blanket. For this design, place the head in the middle so the blanket falls evenly around it.

1. Check the placement.

Lay the blanket flat with the right side facing upward. Position the bear head with its face pointing upward and its open 18-stitch base resting against the blanket. Adjust it until the blanket extends evenly around the head.

Use stitch markers to mark four points around the head’s base: the top, bottom, left, and right. This helps distribute the sewing evenly.

2. Prepare the sewing yarn.

Cut a long strand of matching yarn and thread it through your yarn needle. Tie a secure starting knot on the inside edge of the head opening, leaving the knot hidden between the head and blanket once assembled.

3. Sew the head to the blanket.

Working through the 18 stitches around the head’s open base, sew each stitch to a corresponding point on the blanket. Take small stitches through the blanket fabric without pulling so tightly that the square puckers.

Work around the entire base, checking that the head remains upright and centered. Once you have completed the first pass, go around the base a second time to reinforce the attachment seam.

4. Secure the yarn.

Pass the needle through several stitches on the underside of the blanket, change direction, and weave in the yarn tail. Trim the excess close to the fabric without cutting the securing stitches.

Gently lift the head and check the seam. If any section feels loose, reinforce it with additional small stitches. The head should not wobble excessively or pull the blanket into a gathered shape.

G. Final Finishing

Complete these finishing steps before considering the lovey finished.

Weave in every remaining yarn end, including the blanket and border ends.
Inspect the head, ears, muzzle, embroidered face, and attachment seam.
Check for visible stuffing, gaps between stitches, loose embroidery, or unraveling seams.
Smooth the blanket flat and gently shape the head and ears with your fingers.
Measure the blanket and check that the head sits proportionately near the center.
Follow the yarn and fiberfill care labels when washing or cleaning the item.

Do not pull the head or ears forcefully to test their attachment. Instead, inspect the seams carefully and reinforce any weak areas with matching yarn.

8. Complete Written Pattern Summary

Use this condensed version as a reference while crocheting. The stitch counts and construction match the detailed instructions above.

Bear head

Use the 3.5 mm hook and work in continuous rounds.

Round 1: 6 sc into a magic ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Increase in every stitch. (12 sts)
Round 3: Repeat sc, inc six times. (18 sts)
Round 4: Repeat 2 sc, inc six times. (24 sts)
Round 5: Repeat 3 sc, inc six times. (30 sts)
Rounds 6–8: Sc in every stitch. (30 sts each)
Round 9: Repeat 3 sc, dec six times. (24 sts)
Round 10: Repeat 2 sc, dec six times. (18 sts)

Stuff evenly. Leave the 18-stitch base open for sewing to the blanket.

Two ears

Make two using the 3.5 mm hook.

Round 1: 6 sc into a magic ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Increase in every stitch. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc in every stitch. (12 sts)

Fasten off with a long sewing tail. Flatten each ear, leave it unstuffed, and sew it symmetrically to the upper sides of the head.

Embroidered face and muzzle

Muzzle: Ch 5; work 3 sc along one side, 3 sc in the final chain, 2 sc along the opposite side, and 2 sc in the remaining loop. (10 sts)
Next round: Sc in every stitch. (10 sts)
Sew the muzzle to the lower front of the head.
Embroider two short eyes, a nose, and a simple mouth using dark yarn.
Secure all embroidery ends inside the head.

Square blanket

Use the 4 mm hook and joined rounds.

Starting ring: Ch 4 and join with a sl st.
Round 1: Four groups of 3 dc, separated by ch-2 corner spaces. (12 dc, 4 corner spaces)
Round 2: Work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in every corner space; work dc in every stitch along the sides. (28 dc, 4 corner spaces)
Round 3: Repeat the corner pattern and work dc in every stitch along each side. (44 dc, 4 corner spaces)
Round 4 onward: Repeat the same corner pattern and work dc in every stitch along the sides. Each side grows by four stitches per round.

Chain 3 at the beginning of each dc round; it counts as one dc. Join with a sl st to the top of the starting chain 3. Continue until the blanket measures approximately 12–14 inches across.

Optional border

Join yarn in any corner space and ch 1.
Work 2 sc in the first corner space.
Work 1 sc in every dc along the side.
Work 3 sc in each remaining corner space.
Continue around and join with a sl st to the first sc.

Fasten off and weave in the end.

Head attachment and finishing

Position the bear head in the center of the blanket, with its face upward.
Use markers to check placement.
Sew the 18-stitch opening around its full circumference to the blanket.
Reinforce the seam with a second pass.
Weave in all ends and inspect every component.

9. Color and Design Variations

You can personalize the lovey without changing its basic construction.

Classic brown bear: Use medium brown yarn for the head and ears with a cream muzzle.
Cream bear: Choose cream or ivory yarn with a soft brown embroidered face.
White or gray bear: Use white, light gray, or charcoal-gray yarn for a different look.
Pastel blanket: Make the square in pale blue, mint, lavender, blush pink, or butter yellow.
Contrasting border: Use a complementary color for the single crochet border.
Striped blanket: Change yarn colors at the beginning of selected rounds. Join the new color securely and weave in each end.
Larger or smaller blanket: Add rounds for a larger square or stop earlier for a smaller one.

Keep the bear head, ears, and facial details consistent with the main pattern if you want the same teddy-bear design. Avoid detachable decorations.

Changing yarn weight or hook size can affect both the texture and the finished dimensions. If you change the yarn, check the head fabric carefully to ensure that the stitches remain dense enough to contain the stuffing.

10. Troubleshooting Guide

Problem	Likely cause and solution
The head looks uneven.	Uneven tension or missed increases may distort the shape. Count each round carefully and use a marker to identify the first stitch.
The stuffing shows through the stitches.	The hook may be too large or the stuffing may be packed too tightly. Try a smaller hook and use smaller amounts of fiberfill.
The ears are different sizes.	The stitch counts or tension may differ. Make both ears with the same yarn, hook, and round counts, then compare them before sewing.
The face looks asymmetrical.	The embroidery or muzzle may be off-center. Use the centerline of the head as a guide and adjust the features before securing the yarn ends.
The blanket curls.	Your tension may be too tight, or stitches may have been skipped. Check the side stitches and corner spaces, and keep your tension even.
The corners are not clearly defined.	You may have missed a corner space or placed the corner stitches into ordinary stitches. Mark each corner space and work the corner sequence only there.
The blanket edges are uneven.	An edge stitch may have been missed or worked twice. Count the stitches along each side and make sure every stitch is worked once.
The head leans to one side.	The head may not be centered, or the attachment stitches may be uneven. Reposition it before sewing and distribute the stitches evenly around the base.
The attachment seam looks bulky.	The sewing stitches may be too large or too tight. Use small, even stitches with matching yarn and avoid pulling the blanket into gathers.
The head feels loose after sewing.	Some base stitches may not be secured to the blanket. Reinforce the seam around the entire 18-stitch opening, then weave in the sewing yarn securely.

11. Care and Maintenance

The best care method depends on the yarn, fiberfill, and construction. Always check the yarn label and the stuffing manufacturer’s instructions before washing the lovey.

Check washing instructions: Some yarns tolerate gentle machine washing, while others require hand washing or surface cleaning.
Wash gently: If the materials permit washing, use a gentle method and avoid harsh agitation that could damage the embroidery or seams.
Dry thoroughly: Follow the care labels and make sure the head and stuffing dry completely before storing the item.
Avoid excessive heat: High temperatures may affect some yarn fibers and synthetic stuffing.
Inspect regularly: Check the ears, face embroidery, head attachment, and blanket edges for loose threads or damaged stitches.
Repair promptly: Stop using the lovey if any component becomes loose, the stuffing becomes exposed, or the fabric starts to unravel.

Even if the yarn is labeled machine washable, the finished item’s seams and stuffing may require extra care. Do not assume the entire lovey is machine washable without checking the materials.

12. Frequently Asked Questions

1. What is a crochet baby lovey?

A crochet baby lovey is a small comfort item that combines a soft blanket with an animal head or another simple crocheted feature. This pattern uses a teddy bear head with two rounded ears attached to a square blanket.

2. Is this pattern suitable for beginners?

Yes. The project is suitable for beginners who are comfortable with single crochet, increases, decreases, and basic sewing. The continuous-round head and joined-round blanket are explained step by step, but the project requires patience and careful stitch counting.

3. Which yarn is suitable for a baby lovey?

Choose a smooth, soft yarn that is easy to care for and appropriate for the intended use. A washable medium-weight yarn is a practical choice for this design. Check the yarn label before washing, and avoid yarn that sheds excessively or develops long loose fibers.

4. How do I keep the stuffing from showing?

Use a hook small enough to create dense stitches in the head. Maintain even tension and add fiberfill gradually instead of forcing a large amount inside at once. If you can see stuffing through the stitches, consider remaking the head with a smaller hook.

5. How can I make the animal face without plastic eyes?

Embroider the eyes, nose, and mouth with yarn using a blunt yarn needle. Keep the stitches short, symmetrical, and secure. Weave the ends inside the head and trim excess yarn without leaving long loose strands.

6. How do I attach the head securely to the blanket?

Use the 18-stitch opening at the base of the bear head. Center the head on the blanket, mark the placement, and sew the entire opening to the blanket with small, evenly distributed stitches. Make a second pass around the base to reinforce the seam, then secure the yarn ends.

7. Can I make the blanket larger?

Yes. Continue repeating the established blanket round until the square reaches your preferred size. Each additional round increases the dimensions while preserving the four corners. Keep track of your stitches and measure the blanket flat.

8. How should I wash the finished lovey?

Follow the care instructions for both the yarn and fiberfill. Depending on the materials, gentle hand washing, machine washing on a suitable cycle, or surface cleaning may be appropriate. Dry it thoroughly and inspect the seams after cleaning.

9. Can I use a different animal design?

Yes. You can adapt the basic idea to another simple animal by changing the head and ear shapes. However, a different animal may require a new pattern, so do not assume the teddy-bear stitch counts will produce the correct shape for every animal.

10. Is a crochet lovey suitable for an infant’s sleep space?

No. Do not leave a handmade lovey in an infant’s sleep space. Soft objects and loose bedding should be kept out of an infant’s sleep area according to safe-sleep guidance. Use the lovey only in an age-appropriate manner with adult supervision.

13. Conclusion

Making a baby crochet lovey is a lovely way to create a personalized handmade gift. With consistent stitches, a neatly shaped bear head, embroidered facial features, securely sewn ears, and a carefully finished blanket, you can create a charming teddy-bear comfort item.

Take time to inspect every seam and yarn end before use, follow the care instructions for your materials, and always observe age-appropriate use and safe-sleep guidance.